I’m old enough now to join the ranks of Baby Boomers who are traveling everywhere on the planet. Two weeks ago my daughter and I traveled to Venice, Florence and Rome in celebration of her 35th birthday. Although I visited Venice 10 years ago with a group of teachers, it had been 45 years since I’d been to Rome and Florence. I had fuzzy memories of my first trip when I was in my mid-twenties; this journey would reacquaint me with a few familiar places.
Although I would have preferred to end our trip in Venice, the travel arrangements had us going to Venice first. I jumped on the chance to join a group of teachers doing an art tour of Venice, Vienna and Prague a decade ago, and I loved it so much I hoped to return one day. My daughter’s pending birthday was my excuse to make plans to return with her to Italy.
To me, Venice is a mirage floating on water. It was even more glorious than I remembered it to be.
It doesn’t seem possible that a city built on wooden pilings pounded into the clay below the surface of the lagoon almost 1500 years ago could still be standing intact. As I learned from our tour guide in Venice, the wood used to build the impressive palazzos along the Grand Canal was brought from as far away as Croatia and Slovenia by boat. Then hundreds, sometimes thousands of wooden posts had to be pounded into the clay with a wooden platform placed on top of the pilings to support each palazzo. Since wood does not deteriorate when it is completely submerged and has no contact with oxygen, but instead becomes stronger through a salt-water petrification process, these pilings have allowed the ornate buildings of Venice to continue to appear to float on the surface of the Grand Canal since the fifth century.
http://www.ancient-origins.net/ancient-places-europe/construction-venice-floating-city-001750
Yes, the sea level is rising and Venice is scrambling to deal with that problem since 2003 by constructing three strategically placed floodgates at entrances to the Grand Canal (the MOSE project) to hold back the occasional flood tides, similar to the flood gates in Amsterdam and London. Most people, however, believe this is a temporary solution and that Venice will eventually slowly sink into the sea which surrounds it.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSE_Project
And, yes, the quantity of cruise ships entering the lagoon over the past decade was doing irreparable damage to the Grand Canal which has now been addressed by new regulations preventing the cruise ships from anchoring inside the Grand Channel lagoon.
On the final day of our 2 1/2 day visit to Venice we did see a cruise ship being towed through the Grand Canal out to the Mediterranean. It was a ghastly sight; the ship loomed over the palazzos along the Grand Canal as it slowly made its way out to the Adriatic Sea. I was so grateful our vistas of the Grand Canal had not been affected by the presence of these ships (as they had been when we visited Greece last year), except for the hordes of tourists that would invade the city every day.
This second time around in Venice I was struck by the constant movement of water in the Grand Canal, caused by the ebb and flow of the tide. This is accentuated by the constant traffic of boats of all kinds plying the waters of the canal. Since the city is criss-crossed by canals and foot bridges that connect the countless islands (originally 118) that make up the city, trucks and cars are not a viable means of transportation. We watched flat-hulled work boats carrying among other things, jugs of wine, water bottles, construction equipment, and fresh produce throughout the day, starting early each morning.
http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/veneto/venice/boats.html
The constant movement of water and boat traffic creates an overall feeling of restlessness in the city. Things quiet down after midnight when the work boats are docked and the tourist gondolas and ferries are at rest. I ended each exhausting day of sightseeing by opening the shutters and the windows of our lovely room facing the Grand Canal to be greeted by the sight and peacefulness of Venice at night, under a full moon. Only then can you actually hear the water lapping at the foundations of the buildings, reminding you that this city is unique in the world and is a survivor.
I know I haven’t even mentioned the usual tourist attractions of Venice: St. Mark’s Cathedral, the Doges Palace, the Rialto Bridge and market and the hundreds of churches and squares that are pervasive. I will address them in a future post. But for me, this second time around, I found I wanted to know more about the structure and inner workings of the city and how Venetians actually live their daily lives in this magical place.
Next time: A meet-up with an American violin-maker who moved his family to Venice and a reunion with a master engraver who is still capturing the beauty and timelessness of Venice in his engravings.
Beautiful pictures and descriptions. I have never been to Venice… I loved reading your account.
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I hope you get there someday; it’s truly unique and lovely.
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I didn’t expect to see that cruise ship. {Sigh.}
Thanks for bringing me along with your photos. Venice is one of the many places on my bucket list.
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You must go. There’s no place like it (that I know of). Fortunately, the cruise ships are no longer anchored within the lagoon.
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Beautiful places and rich history. Thanks for the post 🙂
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I too was shocked to see that picture of the cruise ship. Yikes! Venice looks beautiful. Thank you for sharing your pictures and knowledge with us all. Might have to visit some day!
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Change that to MUST visit some day. There’s more to come about Venice, so stay tuned!
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I enjoyed reading your information about the building of Venice. Was that your photo of the cruise ship? I don’t remember cruise ships in the area when I went 18 years ago. Argh…that’s so long ago. I want to go back! 🙂 Enjoyed your story.
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Not my photo, but I chose it because it shows the disparity between the dimensions of these ships and Venice. They’re really quite offensive. I don’t remember them either, but they succeeded in driving away the long-term residents of the city. Do go back…I’d go again if I could!
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I hope to go back. Especially after reading about your trip. 🙂
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Venice is such an interesting city! I can’t even imagine the genius of the early people who built the city. I love the way you are taking us through Venice, your way.
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Yes, this will be a highly idiosyncratic tour of Venice. I’m so glad you’re enjoying it so far. Have you been there?
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Years ago I was there with a group of high school kids.
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Thank you for a lovely, personal look at Venice. I enjoyed your words and photos! That cruise ship photo is surreal. {sad}
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I chose the photo because it so aptly shows the incongruity of a ship this size in such a lovely, intimate place. It’s almost obscene! More to come about Venice….
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So glad you got a chance to revisit this beautiful city. I am really enjoying the tour through your pictures and commentary.
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I am so glad you are enjoying my tour, my way. There’s lots more to come!
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Venice is a stunning place. I am so glad they are moving those cruise ships!
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Me, too! They are obscene. Not to mention that people don’t travel to these unique locations to see a cruise ship destroying the scenery. I agree; Venice IS stunning!
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Hi Barbara! Frank and I were in Venice last summer and really enjoyed it. We cruised the Grand Canal one evening on the vaporetto. Evening is when you hear the water lapping against the foundation…
I like the fact that you return to a place you already know, and yet see in with new eyes.
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I love Venice at night. Yes, I wanted to see “below the surface” the second time around, so I was eager to learn everything I could about this amazing place.
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